The annual Miami Rum Renaissance show is equal parts rum evangelism to the curious and family reunion for the hard-core rum crowd. Having inexplicably missed Rum Renaissance last year, it was at the top of my 2015 list of non-negotiable trips, along with the upcoming Tales of the Cocktail in July.
Show organizer Robert Burr and RumXP judges announcing winners
The core of Rum Renaissance is a three-day exhibition, held at the Miami Airport Convention Center, wherein rum producers host booths for sampling rum and related goodies – rum cake, anyone? Some companies go all out in a large booth with tons of ornamentation, while others are more spartan, choosing to let the rums speak for themselves. A few days prior to the event an assembled panel of rum experts (RumXPs) judge dozens of rums in various classes, electing a “Best in Class” and three gold medals per class. The results are announced the evening of the first day, and medals are handed out for prominent display by the winning vendors over the following two days.
Rums of Puerto Rico booth with RumXP medals
Plantation Rum shows off their RumXP medals
Lost Spirits, which I’ve coveredextensively, has been in the news of late about their plan for a spirits aging “reactor” that claims to provide the equivalent of twenty years of aging in six days. Leading up to Rum Renaissance, master distiller Bryan Davis had announced a new rum called Prometheus, modeled after the 33-year aged Port Mourant from Guyana, to debut at Rum Renaissance. To say the Prometheus was highly anticipated by the rum cognoscenti is an understatement. Although finished bottles of Prometheus were not on hand for sale, Bryan brought a sample bottle that he shared with a few lucky folks, myself included. I look forward to reviewing it once available.
Lost Spirits Prometheus sample
Richard Seale (Foursquare) and Bryan Davis, Lost Spirits booth
The Floating Rum Shack visits the Lost Spirits booth
Toward the end of the first day, I was watching Bryan explain the Lost Spirits story to someone. Standing next to me was an older gentleman, whom I soon realized hadn’t heard the whole Lost Spirits pitch, so I began explaining it to him. We soon exchanged names and only then did I realize it was Phil Prichard, of Prichard’s Distillery in Kelso, Tennessee. Talk about an honor! Like Bryan, Phil is a maverick in the spirits industry, bucking the conventional wisdom and competing with the big guys. Mrs. Wonk and I had visited the distillery a few months back but hadn’t met Phil then, so meeting him at Rum Renaissance was an unexpected surprise. As Phil, Bryan, and I chatted, I realized that highly anticipated seminar by Richard Seale on rum categorization was starting momentarily, so the three of us hastily left to get seats.
Cocktail Wonk & Phil Prichard
Richard Seale at his presentation
Slide from the Richard Seale presentation
Like Bryan and Phil, Richard Seale of Foursquare Distilleryin Barbados has acquired a reputation as an iconoclast, a teller of hard truths about the rum industry. He’s best known for forcing the rum community to talk about the practice of adding sugar and other additives to rum without being labeled as such. Richard contends (and I agree) that there are artisanal rums being produced that are on equal footing with premium spirits like single malt scotch, but that rum as a category is held back by useless categorizations (e.g. “white”, “gold” and “dark,”) as well as shenanigans by the big players, including unlabeled additives. At the start of Richard’s session, each attendee was given four unlabeled rum samples with obviously different coloring. Our task was to identify each sample – they all tasted nice enough, but were quite different from each other. The trick was on us however, as Richard revealed they were all the same rum, but with different flavorings added. Even the experts are fooled by this sort of chicanery. Among the key points Richard made is that the type of distillation matters, i.e. pot still, column still, and blends. The session wrapped up with a call to action: Rum producers need to decide whether to go the premium, regulated route like Scotch and Cognac, or whether (like vodka) rum’s value comes solely from marketing and packaging.
Toby Tyler, Cocktail Wonk, Joe Farrell at the Afrohead booth
Having reviewedthe Afrohead Seven-year rum recently, I was happy to have a long conversation with Afrohead’s founders, Toby Tyler and Joe Farrell from Harbor Island in the Bahamas. It’s clear that Afrohead is spending some serious marketing money to make an entrance into the rum category, including hosting a breakfast for the RumXP judges. Their booth included large images of the distinctive Afrohead logo, each highlighting a hidden symbol within the design. Among the fun moments of our conversation was when Toby showed me photos on his phone from his trip to the Angostura distillery blending room, where he works on Afrohead’s blends. We talked primarily about the 15 year which I hope to review here soon.
Heaven Hill booth
This year, Rum Renaissance benefited from the addition of a “Trade Expo” portion only accessible to the media and trade, featuring a variety of interesting rums, most currently without US distribution. A special deal allowed these rums to be imported for sampling and allowed generous amounts of time for serious conversations with the producers without being swarmed by folks looking for yet another glass of rum punch or a free T-shirt.
John Barrett, Bristol Classic Rums
Just after entering the Trade Expo section, I spotted Bristol Classic Rums founder John Barrett at a table with a few of their rums. I bee-lined over for some quality time with John, primarily talking about the Bristol story. I already own two of the five Bristol Classic rums he had on display, including the Black Spiced which I reviewedearlier. The new (to me) Bristol expressions were a 1996 Caroni, a 2004 Barbados, and a 2004 Haitian, the latter of which was considered a thing of beauty by myself and several others.
Master blender “Don Pancho” Fernandez with family, Ron Duran booth
Authentic Caribbean Rum booth
Nearby was the Authentic Caribbean Rum (ACR) table. ACR is an alliance of rum producers who have strict standards about the quality of their rums. The table was lined with many top-notch rums I recognized–some by personal experience, other by extensive reading of rum blogs. Among the ACR table highlights for me was the St. Nicholas Abbey 5-year, the first aged expression created entirely at the distillery in Barbados. I own the St. Nicholas Abbey 10 and 15 as a result of visiting the distilleryin 2013; the 10- and 15-year were distilled by Foursquare and then sold to St. Nicholas Abbey, where they underwent additional aging. I found the St. Nicholas Abbey Five to be very smooth, with fewer acetone notes than I get from the 10 and 15 year. Other ACR highlights included the Hampden Gold and Monymusk (love my Jamaican funk!) and the Foursquare port cask-finished.
Skotlander Rum booth
Nine Leaves Rum booth
The Trade Expo area also featured much newer rum producers. Skotlander rum from Denmark showed several of their offerings, including an unaged (“raw”) white, an aged (“cask”) rum, and a sea buckthorn-infused rum (a berry-like fruit); I came away with 50ml bottles of the raw and sea buckthorn rum to noodle on later. With its beautiful bottles, the Nine Leaves rum from Japan caught my eye. They have an unaged white rum, as well as a number of different lightly aged versions, one using a California wine cask. I wish I could tell you more about how the Nine Leaves tasted, but my palate was fried by this point in the day—more news to come on those tastings.
Tito Cordero, Master Blender for Diplomatico
Wandering around the show floor on the second day, I spotted Tito Cordero, master blender for Diplomatico standing alone by the Diplomatico booth. I quickly took advantage of the opportunity and quizzed him about upcoming Diplomatico single vintage releases — the current being the 1997 and 2000 vintage. If I understood him correctly, he said that a 2002 will be coming out later this year.
Something that surprised me as I circulated through the booths was the absence of certain really big players. Bacardi was not in attendance, notwithstanding a small presence in the “Rums of Puerto Rico” booth. Also missing were big dogs Appleton and Captain Morgan. However, without giant players dominating attention, the lesser known brands could shine – there were big, splashy booths from Plantation, Bayou, Afrohead, Rums of Puerto Rico, and others.
Boy Drinks World Bitters booth
Plantation VP Guillaume Lamy at the Plantation booth
With all these rummy people present, you’d (correctly) surmise that the evening activities would focus heavily on bars. A series of events at different locales (proclaimed as “Miami Cocktail Week”) provided a starting point for each evening, but the Broken Shakerwas where most of the rum industry ended up night after night. The Rum Line in South Beach was a big hit with Mrs. Wonk, the Lost Spirits folks, and myself on Friday. And Saturday night? Well, that was the famed Mai-Kaievening – a huge pile of the rummy crowd piled into charter bus headed to the Mai-Kai for a mind-blowing Tiki experience. So much to tell about that visit that I’m saving it for another post!
Within the rum world, Plantation is a dichotomy: A well-regarded purveyor of rums from around the world, but which makes no rum itself. A company with solid, readily available expressions that also continuously dabbles in special releases. A subsidiary of a well-regarded French Cognac producer, with a larger than life (and often shirtless) brand ambassador from Seattle.
Plantation inspires fierce loyalty among the rum crowd, due in large part to frequent limited releases and a strong outreach to rum aficionados like myself. Most recently, Plantation hosted breakfast at Rum Renaissance in Miami, where they shared details about upcoming releases. Invitees included all the Rum Renaissance 2015 judging panel, as well as a few other folks with strong ties to the rum community. I scored an invite and was thrilled to find myself sitting poolside on a hot, sunny Miami morning among so many well regarded rum writers, including but not limited to Robert Burr, Peter Holland of The Floating Rum Shack, Matt Robold from RumDood, Paul E. Senft of Rum Journey, Bob Leonard of Bahama Bob’s Rumstyles, as well Tiki luminaries including Marie King (Tonga Hut) and Suzanne Long (Longitude), and a whole slew of other rum luminaries.
The welcome drink of choice was simple–Plantation 3 stars over ice. As the catered breakfast started up, guests gravitated towards a pineapple smoothie station and, nearly to a person, “fortified” their smoothie with a healthy pour of Plantation 5 from Barbados. Once settled in, Plantation vice president Guillaume Lamy launched into his presentation, with this factoid: Plantation currently has 5,000 barrels of rum in their inventory, primarily from Barbados. (The Plantation 5 Grande Reserve, the workhorse of the Plantation lineup, is sourced from Barbados, so no surprise there.)
Guilllaume Lamy providing rare pre-release samples to a thirsty crowd.
With the preliminaries covered, Guillaume turned to recent Plantation activity. First up was an update on Stiggins Fancy, a pineapple-infused rum created as a one-time, limited release of a 600 bottles for the 2014 Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans. Reaction to the Stiggins was immensely positive, and the very few bottles that made their way into private hands are highly coveted. Proceeds from this release were used to fund two bartender scholarships.
At the breakfast, we learned semi-officially (I’d heard prior rumors) that the Stiggins would become a regular part of the Plantation line. Even more exciting, we breakfast folks got to experience Stiggins deconstructed, i.e. tasting the component elements prior to final blending, distillation, and aging. Starting with special Queen Victoria pineapples (flown in at great expense for freshness, rather than the more traditional shipping via slow boat), the rinds are separated from the flesh. The rinds are then macerated for eight weeks in 110 proof Plantation 3 Stars rum, which we sampled from a hand-labeled bottle. Although a bit more potent than the 3 Star I’m used to, it was a bit of an eye opener to see how much pineapple rinds can add to a rum. The rind infusion, heavy with pineapple oils, is distilled again to create a pineapple “essence.”
Meanwhile, a batch of Plantation Original Dark rum from Trinidad is infused with the pineapple flesh for three days; at this point, another hand-labeled bottle with the infused original dark appeared for our sampling pleasure. It was about what you’d expect a pineapple infusion of Original Dark to taste like, so no great surprise there.
After blending the rind essence and flesh infusions, the resulting mix is aged for two months in used cognac casks — medium toasted so as to minimize wood flavor extraction that wouldn’t mesh with the pineapple notes. Our third tasting was the final Stiggins product. Even though I’m sure everybody in attended had already at least sampled it several times, the pour of Stiggins was met with many smiles.
While enjoying our deconstructed samples, we learned that in February of this year, Plantation produced an additional 6,000 bottles of the Stiggins Fancy, which will be exclusive to the US market. Guillaume said that going forward, Plantation was planning to make 36,000 bottles twice a year, which should help the Stiggins shed its “unobtanium” nickname.
One of Plantation’s most rare, sought-after releases is the 1998 Guadeloupe, an agricole-style rhum that benefits nicely from its French vacation in used cognac barrels. Thus, when Guillaume brought out another hand-labeled bottle proclaiming Reunion Island (an agricole producing island), a ripple passed through the crowd. The bottle contained rhum aged for 12 years on Reunion Island, then shipped to the Plantation facility in Cognac for finishing in cognac and Madeira casks. And yes, it was delicious as expected, the grassy agricole funk elevated by the refined touch of sweetness from the Plantation finishing process. Guillaume said that a relatively small number of bottles had been made–with only 144 allocated to the North American market via SAQ in Canada. A new unobtanium is born.
The next (rum-based) surprise was poured from another hand-labeled bottle indicating a blend of Jamaican and Guyanese rums – in and of themselves, a lovely pairing, but not particularly swoon-worthy, until Guillaume mentioned the blend had been finished in an Arran Whisky cask, giving it the smokey, peat character that you either love or hate (I love, thankfully).
Last, but certainly not least, we were treated to a special bottle, brought from Denmark by Johnny Drejer– A rare 1999 Plantation Jamaica port cask finish. The expected Jamaican funk was there, finishing with a typically sublime Plantation finish. As things were wrapping up after the final tasting, a bit of shirtless activity ensued…photos are withheld here to protect delicate eyes.
The three days prior to the breakfast, the RumXP judges underwent three days of rum tastings to select the top rums submitted in different categories. Although many of the judges were present at the breakfast, some of us didn’t yet know the results, so we were pleasantly surprised to learn that Plantation had earned four “Best in Class” honors and another four gold medals. With an ever-changing lineup of top quality, limited releases and their ongoing great engagement with the rum community, it’s easy to see how Plantation has become a big dog in the high-end rum category.
As a US-based rum wonk. I’m constantly pining over all the interesting rum lines coming out of Europe, and especially England – a hotbed of rum going back to the 1600s. One brand I’d heard of numerous times was Elements Eight, primarily in reference to their spiced rum. So on a cold December day in late 2014 at The Vintage House in London, I found myself staring down a treasure trove of rums I couldn’t ordinarily get, and the Elements Eight Gold was one rum that went on my short list straightaway.
The Element Eights Rum Company is London-based, formed in 2005. It’s run by two spirit industry vets, Carl Stephenson and Andreas Redlefsen, both previously at J. Wray & Nephew, the company behind the well-known Appleton brand. Element’s primary market is the UK, although distribution to other counties (such as Spain, Germany and Canada) is growing, although sadly, they’re not in the US yet. Continue reading “Suitcase Rum: Elements Eight Gold Rum”
Mrs. Wonk and I spend more than our fair share of time in bars, where one of our pastimes is scanning the backbar and picking out most interesting and worst looking bottle, based solely on appearance. The Afrohead rum is one such bottle that grabs your attention. A recent arrival on US shores, the Afrohead rum line is produced by the Harbor Island Rum Co., out of the Bahamas. There are two bottlings, a seven year as well as a fifteen year “Grand Reserve” edition. The Afrohead rum line first came to my attention when I was provided a bottle of the seven year for review by their PR firm. The Afrohead rums are truly a multi-island affair: In addition to being based in the Bahamas, it incorporates molasses from the Dominican Republic, is distilled in Trinidad, and bottled in Barbados.
Mrs. Wonk and I have a friend who’s a cook and foodie, and every month or so he spends an evening at Casa Cocktail Wonk. The three of us work collectively on a themed dinner, including several appropriately paired cocktails during preparation. Last time the flavor theme was cherry, so my natural first line of thought was Cherry Heering, the delicious, sweet liqueur from Denmark. Now, our friend isn’t a big fan of sweet drinks, so the obvious Tiki choices were out, and I’d already made a Punchy’s First Strike during a prior visit. The classic Blood and Sand (with corrected ratios) was already on the docket, but I needed another cocktail that made good use of the Cherry Heering. Thanks to Imbibe Magazine’s ever-helpful site, I quickly zeroed in on the Remember the Maine – a drink I’d heard of but had somehow never made.
The Remember the Maine is an interesting twist on the Manhattan. The classic Manhattan, you may recall, is rye, sweet vermouth, and bitters. The Remember the Maine drops the vermouth ratio down a tad but makes up for it with Cherry Heering, while the kick of the bitters is replaced by the exotic herbal-ness of absinthe. The typical recipe given for it is this:
2 oz rye
0.75 oz sweet vermouth
2 teaspoons (1/3 oz) Cherry Heering
0.5 teaspoons (1/12 oz) Absinthe (*)
Stir ingredients over ice, strain into chilled coupe. Garnish with a brandied cherry (preferably not cheap nuclear red cherries).
(*) There is disagreement whether to rinse the glass with absinthe, or include it as an ingredient with the others. I advocate rinsing–a little goes a long way in this drink.
The Remember the Maine’s origins harken back to the classic 1939 book The Gentleman’s Companion, by Charles H. Baker. The drink’s name refers to a phrase that became popular in the US during the lead-up to the Spanish-American war of 1898: “Remember the Maine, to hell with Spain!” The backstory: The USS Maine, an American warship, sank mysteriously in Havana’s harbor, and rumor had it that Spain was responsible.
Much as I enjoy the classic Remember the Maine recipe, it also has solid bones for improvising. While the spicy rye provides a good base, I wanted to also incorporate some rich, full-bodied rum into the mix without giving up the rye completely. As well, my particular affinity for the flavor of Cherry Heering inclined me to bump its proportion but not make the drink substantially sweeter in the process. Dropping down the vermouth portion took care of that. My current recipe:
1 oz rye
1 oz aged, dry rum (*)
0.5 oz sweet vermouth
0.5 oz Cherry Heering
1 dash absinthe, for rinse
Rinse chilled coupe with absinthe, discard excess. Stir remaining ingredients over ice, strain into coupe. Garnish with brandied cherry.
(*) Here, I mean a 5+ year rum, dry on the palate, with little or no added sugar. Barbados rums are a good example, and a dry Cuban style like Brugal could also work. I used El Dorado 5.
Of course, there are endless other variations on this theme. Swap out the rye or rum (or both) with tequila, for instance. And please share in the comments if you have your own interesting spin on this classic cocktail.
At the American Distilling Institute conference today (4/1/15), Bryan Davis of Lost Spirits Distillery is announcing they will be making their unique, patented, hyper-speed aging process available to other spirit makers – providing the equivalent of twenty years of barrel aging in a week. No, this isn’t barrel aging with microscopic barrels, and in fact there are no barrels used. The implications of this are profound for the spirits industry. It may sound like an alchemist’s dream of turning lead into gold, but Bryan has the science to back up the claim. A companion post to this story goes into the science of spirit flavors and how Lost Spirits backs up their claims, but for this post, it’s sufficient to know that barrel aging is about transforming organic compounds into more pleasant tasting organic compounds
Before jumping into exactly what Lost Spirits is planning, let’s first review what traditional barrel aging is about. Unlike what many people think, the goal of barrel aging isn’t just to impart a woody flavor to spirits. Instead, the wood both contributes organic compounds to the aging spirit and transforms already existing organic compounds into other organic compounds. Typically referred to as esters and aldehydes, these are what give distilled spirits their taste. (For instance, the ethyl butryate ester has the taste of pineapple, while phenethyl acetate has the taste of honey. When spirits emerge from the still, they’re a soup of mostly organic acids and a few esters, which the barrel aging transforms into other (hopefully flavorful) esters, and a lot more of them.
In an earlier post on this blog, I referenced a white paper on the Lost Spirits website showing gas chromatography charts for a 33-year aged demerara rum.In the simplest terms, the location of spikes on the chart’s X-axis shows the presence of specific flavor compounds, and the height of the spike indicates how much of that compound is present. The presence or absence of spikes, along with their relative heights, provides a “fingerprint” for the spirit. Spirits with similar gas chromatography fingerprints will taste very similar, because essentially they are made of the same stuff.
While the aforementioned paper is interesting in a wonky sort of way, it also set the stage for Bryan to demonstrate the effectiveness of his aging process. (We’ll get to the details of that shortly.) Bryan set out to replicate the signature of this 33-year aged demerara rum using his own distillate and a week-long aging process.The gas chromatograph for the Colonial Inspired Rum (below) shows a similar signature to the 33-year demerara, however its peaks are not as high. That is, the same esters are present, and at the same ratios, although in lower concentrations. Bryan says the Colonial Inspired rum contains about 60 percent of the peak ester and aldehyde levels of the 33-year demerara, corresponding to 20 or so years of aging, assuming the barrel’s ester transformation rate is linear. Put another way, if the 33-year rum had instead been pulled from the barrel after 20 years, it should have a similar profile to . In short, Lost Spirits has turned twenty years of waiting into seven days.
Gas Chromatograph of volatile compounds in a 33 year aged demerara rum and Lost Spirits Colonial Inspired Rum – Image courtesy of Bryan Davis, Lost Spirits Distillery.
While the Colonial Inspired rum was a limited edition, there’s more rum coming from Lost Spirits very soon. While the Colonial Inspired didn’t set out to exactly match the demerara style, the chromatograph strongly suggested it was possible. Thus, Bryan has set his sights on replicating the flavor profile of the 33 year aged demara, down to the touch of caramelized sugar that the graphs suggest is present. The result is the new Lost Spirits Prometheus rum, which will debut at Rum Renaissance in April 2015.
Although the exact details of every step of the Lost Spirits aging process remain a secret, here’s what I can share: Barrels are not used. Instead, charred blocks of wood go into tanks along with the unaged spirit. (Barrels themselves are charred, so charred wood blocks aren’t surprising.) Once the spirit and blocks are in the reactor, the following transformations occur (paraphrasing Bryan):
1) Forced esterification of the volatile carboxylic esters.
2) Polymers in the charred oak blocks are shredded, yielding the same proportionate precursor molecules as the barrel does naturally over decades of aging.
3) Forced the esterification of the wood-derived precursors, which ultimately form into a mix of long-and short-chained esters.
The effect of these three steps is to rapidly cause the same ester transformations that happen in a traditional barrel—but in a literal fraction of the time
The original Lost Spirits rums (Navy Style, Polynesian Inspired, Cuban Inspired) used an early version of this aging process wherein the rum was divided, and each portion went through just one of the steps before all the portions were blended back together. The newer version of the aging process (2.0) runs the entire batch through all three steps in a very specific sequence. The Lost Spirits Colonial Inspired rum, covered here, is the first release to use the 2.0 process. The Prometheus rum will be the second release, although with a different flavor profile, i.e., similar to a 20-year aged demerara.
Given all the crazy equipment and complicated steps necessary to pull off this unique, hyper-speed aging process, how will Lost Spirits lease this technology to other distillers while keeping the critical parts of it a trade secret? Would you believe a “reactor” that condenses the process into a large box, roughly the size of a compact SUV, that’s delivered to the leasing distillery and then wired up for electricity and internet? The power is necessary for the pumps, computers, and other devices within. The internet connection will connect the reactor to Lost Spirit’s computers for control and monitoring. If the reactor can’t talk to the Lost Spirits computer, everything shuts down. And if you pry open the box to see what’s inside? Don’t even think about it.
With the reactor in play, different aging profiles can be created to emphasize desired characteristics. An on-site iPad will provide a certain degree of control to the local distiller. There will be some level of access to the reactor internals – after all, the wood blocks will need to be changed out. But beyond a few things like that, the distiller adds his unaged spirit, and in a week or so, collects the transformed spirit, ready for bottling.
As for how the leasing works, at least in the beta phase, distilleries will pay an upfront amount to cover equipment costs and then a monthly fee thereafter. While this is obviously an added expense for small distillers, barrel aging is expensive as well. Distillers have their capital tied up in barrels for several years, sometimes decades, and during that time they’re losing product to the angel’s share (spirit that evaporates through the barrel walls). Initially Bryan plans to take just a handful of carefully selected distilleries into his beta process, enabling him to closely monitor the process and make adjustments as necessary. He expects that it will be several months before the first reactor is delivered, making a mid-2015 debut.
I have to admit, from the first moment Bryan told me about this (under NDA) I’ve been filled with, “What about…?” and “What if…?” questions. It’s without a doubt a bold move, filled with risk–not least of which is garnering unfavorable attention from giant spirits entities with a vested interest in the status quo. However, if Lost Spirits is successful in this venture, it opens the possibility of distillers creating higher quality products at price points far less than they could achieve with traditional barrel aging. I really can’t wait to see how this story plays out.
Update: Bryan has published his white paper on the reactor, named the “Model 1” on the Lost Spirits site.