In October, 2014 Mrs. Wonk and I toured eight whiskey distilleries in the vicinity of Louisville, KY, and Nashville, TN. In a prior post, I described the common elements of these tours in detail, while this post focuses on the unique parts of our Maker’s Mark Distillery visit. If you’re not familiar with the whiskey-making process, it’s a good idea to read that post first.
CocktailWonk Rating: 10/10 (Beyond the Mark $35 tour)
The Maker’s Mark Distillery in Loretto, KY, makes only a small handful of whiskeys, with the well-known and loved Maker’s Mark as the moneymaker. From the distillery’s start in 1954 up until 2010, it was their only regularly produced spirit. In 2010, they released Maker’s 46–aged a bit more via charred French oak staves. There are also a few limited release bottlings including Maker’s White (unaged), Cask Strength, and Maker’s Mark Mint Julep. The ownership of Maker’s Mark has changed a bit over the years and currently resides in Japanese hands as part of Suntory’s acquisition of Maker’s Mark and Jim Beam in 2014.
Being an avid planner, I hit the Maker’s Mark web site a month before our visit to scope out the options. On the tour page, after the standard details, is a single line with a link: “Special tour information.” Jackpot! Instead of the basic one-hour tourist bonanza, I booked us on the “Beyond the Mark” tour, which promised to show much more of the inner-workings of the distillery. Better yet, the tour size is limited to twelve people, far fewer than the giant groups we saw on the standard tour. The only catch is that you need to book the Beyond the Mark tour in advance, and the tour isn’t offered every day, so plan ahead – it’s worth it!
If you only learn one thing on a Maker’s Mark tour, it’s that they go the extra mile to ensure that their product remains the same, bottle after bottle, year after year. A group of testers at the distillery continuously blind-test newly made spirits with control samples from batches made years ago. There’s an on-site laboratory with gas chromatographs to ferret out variations from the standard reference bourbons. If any non-trivial difference is detected, they launch an investigation to get to the bottom of what changed.
Even the aging process gets the meticulous approach to consistency. It’s a well-established fact that the location of a barrel in the rickhouse affects how flavors are imparted. For instance, in the summer, the upper floors of the rickhouse are hotter than the lower, changing the rate and type of flavors that result from the aging. Many distilleries simply mix a blend of barrels from different parts of the rickhouse to even out the differences. However, Maker’s Mark rotates every barrel through different locations in the rickhouse to make each barrel as similar to the others as possible. This is a very labor -intensive process when you’re dealing with 500 pound whiskey barrels jammed together in close quarters.